Buzz Pea Coat
My wife & daughter got me the Buzz Rickson’s Pea Coat for my birthday.
I’m very happy with the coat, but Melbourne weather will be too warm to wear this until April.
Tags: Pea Coat
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on Wednesday, January 20th, 2010 at 9:02 pm and is filed under Arms.
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Love the pea coat. Have been wanting to buy one for a while and am tossing up whether to pay a lot more for a Buzz Rickson’s or just go the cheaper option like a Schott or Fidelity. Just out of curiousity, why did you get the Buzz Rickson’s one? 36 oz. is going to be really toasty, particularly in Melbourne.
Also, when you sit the collar down, does it look like the worn by Robert Redford? I notice that he is also wearing a 10-button pea coat but the collar/lapels on his appear larger.
Cheers!
Hi Tom. I was researching vintage pea coats a few years ago. I was close to buying one. In my research I became a bit obsessed with details of the originals such as the cord pockets, non-quilted rayon lining, the 10 button design, 36oz felted wool, and the “Manufactured by Naval Clothing Factory” label with the anchors.
Schott and Sterlingwear are missing many of these details in their pea coats. I’m not saying that their coats are inferior. I don’t have access to try any of these brands on, and so I opted for the one that I trust the most to provide me with a coat that is a good replica of the original.
Anyway, I’m very happy with the coat. The quality is excellent. 36 oz will be warm but Melbourne does get cold, especially the mornings from mid-April.
The collar does feel big, but yeah it really stands out when Robert Redford wears it. Perhaps he had a modified version… or maybe he has a small head.
Hey Matt,
I appreciate your help.
I can definately relate to your pea coat obsession. I’m perhaps not as far gone as you describe yourself, but give me a few more weeks of online research and I think I’ll probably be due for some treatment.
The vintage option is definately one I’m considering. Pre-1979 coats are made from Kelsey wool which has a tighter weave than the new Melton pea coats (or so I’ve heard). The drawback: unless you can find one dated WW2 or before, you’re going to end up with fewer pair of buttons visible on the front and not the 10 buttons like on your Buzz Rickson’s. Haven’t decided whether this is a deal breaker or not. What do you think? Is one fewer pair of buttons visible on the front of the coat going to detract from the style? Any other thoughts on the vintage pea coats?
A few weeks ago I tried on a Schott in my size (38) and found the fit around the shoulders and chest fine, but too bulky around the middle. I’ve also previously tried on a Fidelity coat. From information I’ve gleaned online, the ex-service coats are apparently much slimmer around the middle than the civilian Schott/Fidelity peas. The feel of the Schott/Fidelity wool also tends to be a little scratchy. But, to be perfectly honest, for the price you pay, both Schott and Fidelity are great coats and maybe with a little tailoring would suit my slimmer frame.
Or I could just go all out and buy a Buzz Ricksons… BTW – was your gift purchased on the historical preservation website, or is that rude to ask?
Cheers!
Hi Tom,
Some quick answers:
(1) I don’t think you have to have 10 buttons for functionality, but I think it looks nicer.
(2) The Buzz fits me snug when all buttoned up, but it is a thick coat, so it is slightly bulky. I can’t compare it to the bulkiness of the Schott.
I’ll also send you an email.
Hi Guys,
Yep the peacoat is a perfect fit in the photo, looking to purchase the BR peacoat also, but getting mixed messages reading other comments on different sites, some say sizing is of larger fitting and others say smaller, what to believe?? looking at maybe a 40 or 42, usually wear a regular 42 (large) in outerwear and have fairly broad shoulders any suggestions or help would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks Adrian. BR jackets are standard US Military sizes. They aren’t “sized for Japanese”. I am normally size 38 in suit jackets, and that is the size I went with for the pea coat.
I would suggest going with your suit jacket size, unless you are planning on wearing layers under the coat. If you sometimes fit in a 40, then go with that.